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Refinance Calculator

Compare your current mortgage to a refinanced loan and find your break-even point

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Should You Refinance Your Mortgage?

Refinancing can save you tens of thousands of dollars over the life of your loan — or it can cost you money if you sell or refinance again before recouping the closing costs. The break-even point tells you exactly how long you need to keep the home for the refinance to pay off.

Enter your current loan details and the terms of the new loan you are considering. The calculator shows your new monthly payment, monthly savings, the month you break even on closing costs, and your total lifetime interest savings.

How mortgage refinancing works

A mortgage refinance is essentially a new loan that pays off your existing mortgage. You apply with a lender (which can be your current lender or a new one), they appraise the property and review your financials, and at closing the new loan replaces the old one. From that point forward, you make payments on the new loan with its new rate and term.

The most common reason to refinance is to capture a lower interest rate, which reduces your monthly payment and the total interest paid over the life of the loan. Other reasons include switching from an adjustable-rate to a fixed-rate mortgage, removing private mortgage insurance after building enough equity, or pulling cash out of home equity through a cash-out refinance.

Understanding the break-even point

The break-even point is the single most important number when deciding whether to refinance. It is the number of months it takes for your monthly savings to add up to the closing costs you paid. If closing costs are $6,000 and the new payment saves you $250 per month, your break-even is 24 months — at month 25 and beyond, the refinance is genuinely saving you money.

If you plan to sell or refinance again before reaching the break-even month, you will lose money on the deal even if the new rate is lower. This is why "what is the rate?" alone is the wrong question — the right question is "how long will I keep this loan?" combined with the closing-cost math.

When refinancing makes sense

The traditional rule of thumb is to refinance when rates drop at least 1% below your current rate, but that figure is not absolute. With a small loan balance, even a 1% drop may not save enough each month to justify closing costs. With a large balance, even a 0.5% drop can be worth it. Always run the break-even math for your specific situation.

Refinancing is especially attractive if your credit score has improved meaningfully since the original loan, if you have built enough equity to drop private mortgage insurance, or if you want to convert an adjustable-rate mortgage into a fixed rate before further rate increases. Refinancing to a shorter term — say 30 years to 15 — typically saves enormous interest if you can afford the higher monthly payment.

Refinance closing costs explained

Refinance closing costs are typically 2–5% of the loan amount and include charges like the loan origination fee, appraisal, title insurance, recording fees, credit report and prepaid items such as escrow funding for property taxes and homeowners insurance. On a $300,000 refinance, expect somewhere in the $6,000–$15,000 range.

Some lenders offer "no-closing-cost" refinances, where the fees are rolled into the loan balance or covered through a slightly higher interest rate. These can make sense if you do not have cash on hand for closing or plan to keep the loan only a few years, but the long-term cost is usually higher than paying closing costs upfront.

Cash-out refinance vs rate-and-term refinance

A rate-and-term refinance changes your interest rate, your loan term, or both — but the loan amount stays the same. A cash-out refinance increases the loan amount, with the difference paid to you in cash, typically used for home improvements, debt consolidation or other large expenses. Cash-out refinances usually carry slightly higher rates than rate-and-term refinances and increase your total mortgage debt.

Both products serve their purpose. If your goal is purely lower interest payments, a rate-and-term refinance is the cleanest path. If you need cash and home equity is your most accessible source, a cash-out refinance can be a low-rate way to borrow — though a HELOC may be more flexible if you only need access to funds occasionally.

Watch out for resetting your mortgage clock

One subtle cost of refinancing is restarting amortization. If you are 7 years into a 30-year mortgage and refinance into a fresh 30-year loan, you have effectively added 7 years of interest payments back onto your timeline. The lower monthly payment can mask the fact that you will pay more total interest over the long run if you reset the clock.

You can avoid this by choosing a new term that matches your remaining timeline — for example, refinancing into a 23-year loan instead of a 30-year. Many lenders offer non-standard terms; just ask. Alternatively, take the lower payment and apply the savings as extra principal each month to keep your original payoff date.

FAQs

Refinancing replaces your existing mortgage with a new loan, typically at a different interest rate or term. The new lender pays off your old mortgage and you begin making payments on the new loan. Refinancing usually involves closing costs of 2–5% of the loan amount, which is why finding your break-even point is essential before deciding to proceed.

The break-even point is how long it takes for your monthly savings from the new lower payment to cover the upfront closing costs of refinancing. If closing costs are $5,000 and you save $200 per month, your break-even is 25 months. If you plan to keep the home longer than that, refinancing makes financial sense; if not, it likely costs more than it saves.

Refinancing is generally worthwhile when interest rates have dropped at least 0.75–1% below your current rate, you plan to keep the home long enough to recoup closing costs, your credit score has improved since the original loan, or you want to switch from an adjustable to a fixed rate. Always run the break-even math — a lower rate alone is not always enough to justify refinancing.

Refinance closing costs typically run 2–5% of the loan amount. On a $300,000 mortgage, that means $6,000–$15,000 in fees, including appraisal, title insurance, origination fees, recording fees and prepaid items like property taxes and homeowners insurance. Some lenders offer no-closing-cost refinances, but they typically charge a higher rate to make up for it.

Refinancing from a 30-year to a 15-year mortgage typically gets you a lower interest rate and saves enormous amounts of total interest, but the monthly payment is higher. It is a great move if you can comfortably afford the larger payment and want to be debt-free sooner. If cash flow is tight, sticking with a longer term — possibly with extra principal payments when possible — gives you more flexibility.

It can, but it does not have to. Most refinances default to a fresh 30-year term, which lowers the monthly payment but extends the time you spend paying interest. You can choose a shorter term — 20, 15 or even 10 years — to keep your original payoff timeline (or accelerate it) while still capturing the lower rate.